Monroe 271680 Quick-Strut Complete Strut Assembly

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Price: $129.44    

Product Feature

• Bearing Plate
• Upper Spring Isolator
• Upper Spring Seat
• Coil Spring
• Boot Kit

Product Description

The revolutionary Monroe Quick-Strut unit is the first complete, ready-to-install replacement strut assembly available! Monroe Quick-Strut units include all the components required for strut replacement in a single, fully-assembled unit. They feature pre-assembled replacement bearing plate, upper and lower spring isolators, upper spring seat, coil spring, boot kit, and a premium strut. This breakthrough design saves on installation time by eliminating having to disassemble components and compress the coil spring prior to installation. Each Quick-Strut assembly features application-engineered valving to optimize each vehicle's unique ride and handling characteristics

Monroe 271680 Quick-Strut Complete Strut Assembly Review

Monroe Quick Struts Installation for a 2008 Camry with V-6 3.0 engine. May 2011.

I have owned the 2008 Camry since it was new. After 203,000 miles the car had developed a lot of suspension creeks and noises when I was driving at low speed over any rough surface or lately when I was turning the car at low speed in the parking lot. The noise was coming from the strut mounts. Since I have teenagers, I wanted to fix the suspension to make the car safer and drive better. Estimates from several garages to replace all four struts ranged from over $1000 to 1700. Parts ordered from Amazon with shipping and tax for four Monroe QuickStruts ran $660

Equipment needed: Wheel lug nut wrench, wheel chocks, car floor jack, jack stands, assorted 3/8 inch drive metric socket set, � in drive 24 mm socket (for the fronts) and 19 mm socket (for the rears), extension set for the sockets, � inch torque wrench, metric Allen wrench for removing the suspension stabilizer nut, long handled inch breaker bar for removing the large bolts that affix the bottom of the struts to the wheel assembly, blue colored lock tight. It is nice to have an impact wrench when removing the large 24 and 19 mm bolts from the bottom of the struts but this is not absolutely needed. You will also need a set of deep metric sockets for the rear stuts upper mounting bolts.

Experienced needed: This is the first time I had replaced struts in a car. I have replaced the brakes and brake calipers before on many of my cars. This is a little harder than doing a complete brake job since it requires a little more equipment. Start with the fronts. The fronts are easier than the rears since you do not have to remove the rear deck on the car or the rear calipers when you are replacing the front struts. It took me about 75 minutes to do both the fronts. I took twice a long to do the rears.

Procedure: 1) Block the wheels and set the parking brake when doing the front. 2) Loosen the wheel lug nuts, 3) Jack the car up and place the car on jack stands. Make sure the car is rock stable. 4) Remove the wheels. This is a good time to check the condition of your brakes and wheel bearings. 5) Remove the bolt retaining for the sway bar attaching it to the strut. Once you break loose the bolt, you will need to use an Allen wrench to keep the bold from spinning in order to remove the nut from the bolt. 6) Remove the retaining bolt that holds the brake line and the speed sensor hose. There is a plastic spring clip on the speed sensor hose that is attached to the lower end of the strut. This just needs to be gently sprung open and removed. You do not need to remove the brake calipers on the fronts. On the rears, it is easier to remove the brake calipers in order to gain clean access to the large lower mounting bolts. 7) Loosen the large nuts to the two lower mounting bolts using a � in breaker bar. (24 mm nut on the front and 19 mm nuts on the rear). Remove the nuts but leave the bolts in place. 8) Support the bottom of the wheel assembly with the floor jack so the wheel assembly does not fall down when you remove the strut. 9) Loosen the three nuts attaching the top of the strut mounts to the strut mount housing. Leave the nuts attached to bolts. The three nuts are located inside the engine compartment in front and under the rear deck in the rear. More about the rears later. 10) Remove the two large bolts on the bottom of the struts. It is handy if you have an impact wrench but this is not absolutely necessary. Make sure a floor jack supports the bottom of the wheel assembly; otherwise the wheel assembly will drop as you remove the lower retaining bolts from the struts. 11) Completely remove two of the three top strut mounting bolts. This will leave only one upper bolt holding the strut. 12) Free the lower end of the strut from the wheel assembly. 12) Remove the last top strut-mounting bolt while supporting the strut. The strut should come out easily at this point.

13) Installing the new strut. Make sure you have the correct left or right side strut. Install the new strut up into the strut housing so the three upper mounting bolts are through the holes with the correct orientation. Start the three upper nuts on the upper mounting bolts but do not tighten. You need to have a lot of play in these at this point so you can get the lower part of the strut reassembled onto the wheel assembly. 14) Insert the two large bolts to attach the lower end of the strut to the wheel assembly. Place the nuts on the end of the large bolts but do not tighten. 15) At this time you need to make sure the top of the strut mount is engaged to the surface of the strut housing. Uses the floor jack to elevate the whole wheel and strut assembly. The top three mounting bolts attached to the top of the strut should be fully protruding. Tighten the top three upper strut mounting bolts and torque to specification with a torque wrench. Tightening the three top mounting bolts without supporting the lower wheel assembly with a floor jack can cause the upper strut mounting bolts to sheer off. 16) Tighten the two large lower bolts attaching the lower end of the strut to the wheel assembly and torque to specification with a torque wrench. 17) Reattach the sway bar to the strut. 18) Reattach the brake hose clips to the front of the strut and the plastic speed sensor clip to the lower end of the strut. 19) Install the wheels and remove the car from the jack stands. Tighten the wheel lug nuts.

More on the rear struts. The rear struts take more time, as you have to remove the rear deck in order to access the top strut mounting bolts. These are located directly under the seat belt retractor for the rear seats. To access the top strut mounting bolts. 1) Remove the high brake light indicator on top the rear deck by gently pulling forward on the plastic assembly. Once it is free, unclip the wire harness. 2) Remove the outboard seat back cushions. These are the vertical seat back panels that are about 5 inches wide between the door and the portion of the seat back that folds down. There is a retention bolt that is located in the crease between the seat cushion and the seat back very close to where the bottom of the seat belt attaches to the car body. Once the bolt is removed, slide the seat back panel vertically and this will free the cushion. 3) Fold the rear seat back down. Removed the large black plastic panels that form the surround trim for the pass through between the passenger compartment and the trunk. There should be 6 plastic retention clips. 4) Gently remove the rear deck. This is held in place by plastic spring retention clips. 5) Slide the deck forward without removing the seat belt straps so it is resting in a vertical position. 6) Remove the outboard seat belt retractors. These are located right next to the three upper strut mounting bolts. You will need to lift the back sound insulation to see the three upper strut mounting bolts.

On the rear struts it is easier to remove the rear brake caliper. This will make access to the lower strut mounting bolts a lot easier. Once you remove the caliper, make sure you strap it to the suspension since you do not want it to fall or pull on the brake line.

Take the car in for an alignment after you have installed your new struts.

The car drives much nicer, the suspension noises are gone and the car has a much smother ride. I hope my Camry goes for another 200,000 miles.
I should have done this years ago as the car drives much nicer.

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