Thule 571 Roof Mount Cargo Box Storage Lift

You looking to find the "Thule 571 Roof Mount Cargo Box Storage Lift" Good news! You can purchase Thule 571 Roof Mount Cargo Box Storage Lift with secure price and compare to view update price on this product. And deals on this product is available only for limited time.

Price: $152.95    

Product Feature

• Designed for cargo box removal and storage in garages and workshops
• Supports up to 220-lbs (100kg) when installed correctly
• One-person use with crank system, lifting cargo boxes on and off vehicles
• Mounts quickly and easily to ceiling studs or rafters
• Also great for canoes, kayaks, surfboards, sailboards, ladders, etc.

Product Description

The Thule 571 Cargo Box Storage Lift is a simple, yet ideal solution for storing cargo roof boxes on the ceiling of your garage or workshop when not in use on your vehicle. Designed around a combined worm gear drive, roller, rope and crank mechanism, it allows you to raise and lower any sized cargo box right into place. The Thule 571 cargo box storage lift is rated to support up to 220-Pounds when installed correctly and in addition to cargo boxes, can be used to store everything from canoes, kayaks, sailboards, to ladders etc.

Thule 571 Roof Mount Cargo Box Storage Lift Review

Excellent product. Does what it says and functions very nicely. Good quality, but you do have to get some of your own parts to make this thing happen. I have posted 5 pictures of the actual product in use. I used a lot of the helpful hints others have given and summarized below. Also unlike many of the others that have posted, my garage has studs that are 24" on center instead of 16". Therefore, I have used 2x4s cut to 5feet to allow placement into 3 of the studs spread out to 48" with 6" overlap on each side. I used 2 lag screws in the center and 1 lag screw near each end of the 2x4. The center rod is mounted at a distance of 47 1/4 inches (or 1200mm). If you cut at 48 inches, you may have little room to spare. Plus most lumber stores will sell 2x4s at 10 feet long. Just buy two of them and cut them in half. You can probably hit the studs mounted directly to the ceiling, but I you may have to use drywall anchors with the method also. If you have a garage door opener, look up and see where the screw are at mounting this. This will give you a good idea where a stud is and also gives you a good idea where the center of the garage stall is. I mounted my first 2x4 about 27 inches past the front of my garage door opener. I did the math on my Thule box and it suggested to make the length between your back 2x4 and your front 2x4 equal to 1/2 the length of your car box. I would suggest making this length equal to the length that your carbox attaches to your car. Measure the length between the graspers on your car box and spread the front and back 2x4s out to this distance. This should allow you to hang the rope straight down and catch the graspers on the box. This way, the box won't slide anywhere. Mine works fine, but probably should have spread my 2x4s out by another 3-4 inches.

Add'l parts suggested.
2x4" x 10 feet, buy 2 of the them, cut in half to make 4.
3 1/2" long 1/4 inch thick lag screw. I used 4 on each 2x4, but bought 20.
1/4 inch washers, buy as many as you have lag screws
Use 3/16 drill bit for pilot hole.
#8 wood screws ( I used #8 2 inch deck screw because they tap a lot easier), will need 6 screws
#14 2 1/2 inch wood screws, will need 8 total.
9/64 drill bit for pilot hole.
Longer 3/16 rope. I don't know if this is necessary with 10 foot ceilings. I got a 50 footer and probably cut off 15 feet.
3/8 inch foam pipe insulation, get the solid foam without the slit lengthwise down the insulation.
Stud sensor

1. Start by cutting your 2x4 into half or 5 foot each.
2. If you have a center stud in the center of your garage where you opener is, mark the center on the 2x4 and drill 2 pilot holes with the 3/16 bit. Leave the pilot hole at least 1 inch from the edge of the wood.
3. Measure a good distance away from your opener to give you enough room to suspend your carbox. Mine was 27 inches from the opener.
4. Find the center stud with the stud finder. Mark it.
5. Suspend the 2x4 up to the ceiling and roughly square this with your garage. Use one of the pilot holes and drill up into the ceiling studs.
6. Use one of the 3 1/2 inch 1/4 inch lag screws with a 1/4 inch washer and secure the 2x4 up to the ceiling. Not too tight yet. Tap the stud into the correct position squaring it with the garage. Use the second pilot hole and drill the pilot into the ceiling, followed by the lag screw.
7. Go to each side of the 2x4 now and drill one pilot hole into the stud by using a stud finder.
8. Measure the distance between the rail graspers on your car box. Position the second 2x4 this distance away from the first 2x4.
9. Hang the second 2x4 in a similar fashion to the first making sure to keep it square to the first.
10. With the 2 front and rear 2x4s in place, you can then hang the pulleys.
11. The pulleys cannot be spread out any farther than just over 39 inches. My Thule box was about 38 inches wide. I spread the pulleys out to 19 inches from the center of each 2x4. Use a square to make sure you are putting the pilot holes square on the 2x4. Use the 9/64 drill bit for the pilot holes. Use the #14 2 1/2 inch wood screws for this, no washer needed.
12. Once all the pulleys are on, secure the middle 2x4. This should be evenly spaced between the rear and front 2x4s.
13. Secure the 2x4 in a similar fashion as the other 2. You may have to use a countersink into the 2x4 to get the lag screws flush with the face of the 2x4. This is only important on the middle 2x4. The anchor brackets that attach to the wind up bar needs to be spaced out to 47 1/4 inches which comes pretty close to where I had my lag screws. I ended up being able to flip the direction of the middle and end anchor brackets so that they didn't hit up against any of my lag screws. The first anchor bracket has to be facing a certain direction, but the other two can be facing either direction.
14. Attach both the end anchor brackets to the middle 2x4 with #8 2 inch deck screws, no washer. No pilot needed. These need to be mounted at 23 5/8 off center on each side. They should be symmetric on each side, but I moved mine about 1/4 inch to allow it to fit just inside my lag screw head. I then put the other outer one 47 1/4 inches away.
15. Look at the picture and assemble the rod with the coil wheels installed. My rod already had one pin in it already. Slide the rod in place. Don't forget to insert the middle anchor bracket.
16. Bend the cotter pins to hold the rod in place. Secure the middle bracket to the 2x4 with a couple more deck screws. I had a good 2 inches of extra rod exiting the far bracket.
17. Thread the rope through the pulleys and wheels.
18. I used 3/8 inch foam insulation around the rope as others suggested. Buy the stuff that isn't slit lengthwise and feed the rope through it.
19. Figure out how high you would like your carbox when fully down. Mine sits nicely at 48 inches from the ground with a 10 foot ceiling. Cut the rope and tie a good knot. Run your insulation over the knot.
20. Hang your carbox. Level your system by pulling rope through the coil wheels in the middle.
21. Crank it up. I likely will also find some way to use a cordless drill on the pulley system. Takes less than 1 minutes to lift and release the unit. I did not use any PVC pipe to make the middle rod thicker and therefore less turns to lift and drop the unit.

It's a good project, but seems like a spent a few hours working through some of the details. If I did another, probably only looking at about 45 minutes.

Most of the consumer Reviews tell that the "Thule 571 Roof Mount Cargo Box Storage Lift" are high quality item. You can read each testimony from consumers to find out cons and pros from Thule 571 Roof Mount Cargo Box Storage Lift ...